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What I did mostly was wiring for industrial machines but I did enough house wiring to know what you mean ...
The new standard for LED lighting is the GU-24 base with two pins instead of the age old edison socket screw base.

LOLOLOLOL!

LED lamps come in a standard (Edison) base and are just as efficient as the 2 prong or 4 prong Gu-24 base lamps.

But, then again, I asked WHY are they are not rated per current code, buckieBoy.

Tell me WHY.

(And what does the 24 mean in GU-24 while you're at it.)
 
LOLOLOLOL!

LED lamps come in a standard (Edison) base and are just as efficient as the 2 prong or 4 prong Gu-24 base lamps.

But, then again, I asked WHY are they are not rated per current code, buckieBoy.

Tell me WHY.

(And what does the 24 mean in GU-24 while you're at it.)

My guess is the spacing between the pins is 24 millimeters they look to be about and inch apart .
GU- 24 is the new standard . Edison screw bulbs are doomed to be eventually phased out.
 
My guess is the spacing between the pins is 24 millimeters they look to be about and inch apart .
GU- 24 is the new standard . Edison screw bulbs are doomed to be eventually phased out.

LOLOLOLOLOLOL! (AGAIN!)

Your "guess" is WRONG!

GU-24 may be a new standard but that doesn't explain WHY they are not rated for new and retrofit installation per code, ya moron.

I guess you don't know as much as an entry level electrician knows.

Those were some of the easiest questions I could come up with for someone with your VAST electrical experience.

You truly are the most ignorant piece of shit in human skin that I know.

LOLOLOLOLOLOL! (Once again!)
 
My guess is the spacing between the pins is 24 millimeters they look to be about and inch apart .
GU- 24 is the new standard . Edison screw bulbs are doomed to be eventually phased out.

Thinking about it, LED lights produce a lot less extraneous heat as they are many times more efficient than old incandescent bulbs.
I imagine the dedicated LED fixtures would not need to be as resistant to heat and are made of plastic rather than metal. The pin configuration would prevent use of the old heat producing edison bulbs from being used in the lighter plastic fixtures and melting down. Just a guess.
The amperage draw in dedicated LED systems is a fraction of what is called for in old lighting so the wire gauge and breaker ratings would be much lighter as well.
The work of wiring a home or industrial application is really simple. Modern fixtures are so easy to work with even a child could do the work of installation.
 
The work of wiring a home or industrial application is really simple. Modern fixtures are so easy to work with even a child could do the work of installation.

So far, you're batting .000.

Let's say you have some basic tools and a modicum of common sense and your raceway path has a 6&1/2" obstruction.

Using 2&1/2 IRC and 45d bends, what would your multiplier be?

Even a more simple question.
 
LOLOLOLOLOLOL! (AGAIN!)

Your "guess" is WRONG!

GU-24 may be a new standard but that doesn't explain WHY they are not rated for new and retrofit installation per code, ya moron.

I guess you don't know as much as an entry level electrician knows.

Those were some of the easiest questions I could come up with for someone with your VAST electrical experience.

You truly are the most ignorant piece of shit in human skin that I know.

LOLOLOLOLOLOL! (Once again!)

The last work I did was pure retro lighting, converting incandescent lighting systems to the more efficient LED and CFL lamps. I never did any new dedicated LED wiring. As you pointed out we have retro fit basses that are still available and will be for some time.
What is the 24 in GU-24 Princess if not the spacing of the pins?
When compared to electronics the schematics of even a complex home wiring is super simple. New codes can be looked up as needed. It doesn't take thirty years to learn codes that came out last year.
 
The last work I did was pure retro lighting, converting incandescent lighting systems to the more efficient LED and CFL lamps.

So, you changed some lamps for some old lady for a few extra bucks posing as a handyman.

And that makes you qualified enough to say that an electricians job is as simple as all git?

You truly are an ignorant piece of shit, BOY.
 
So far, you're batting .000.

Let's say you have some basic tools and a modicum of common sense and your raceway path has a 6&1/2" obstruction.

Using 2&1/2 IRC and 45d bends, what would your multiplier be?

Even a more simple question.

The conduit bending I did was with a simple hickey and I always did it by eye. Never had to be all that exact, but my work always looked good..
I was not a full time electrician. It was a sideline of my job that I took on rather than hire an overpaid moron like you.
It still isn't rocket science. If I had to I could learn the fine details of conduit bending in a few minutes. As I said I was never inspected with a code violation or had to re-do work.
I did HVAC and plumbing work as well. They were trickier in some ways . Electrical work was never a problem.
 
The work of wiring a home or industrial application is really simple. Modern fixtures are so easy to work with even a child could do the work of installation.

You can't answer a single question outside of changing a light bulb, which is about the extent of your electrical knowledge.

Janitors have been known to do that, I guess.

Or maybe change out a switch or plug.

Does this common industrial application look simple to a moron such as yourself?...

DSCF2577.jpg
 
So, you changed some lamps for some old lady for a few extra bucks posing as a handyman.

And that makes you qualified enough to say that an electricians job is as simple as all git?

You truly are an ignorant piece of shit, BOY.

I managed a resort timeshare building for Hilton. That was the last work I did. Retro lighting was a small part of it.
My previous job for 18 years was designing and building out photo labs for a national resort photography company all over the country. The equipment was mostly 220 -30 to 100 amp service and I only hired an electrician when my time was stretched too thin or if the service needed to be upgraded from the street. It was too easy to do to waste the money on a professional electrician if I didn't need to.
Many of the pros I did hire would fuck things up and I would have to fix it.
 
I managed a resort timeshare building for Hilton.

You managed a mop.

That was the last work I did.

And you hung up that mop.

The equipment was mostly 220 -30 to 100 amp service and I only hired an electrician when my time was stretched too thin or if the service needed to be upgraded from the street. It was too easy to do to waste the money on a professional electrician if I didn't need to.

How liberal of you.

I see you didn't work union.

Why not?

Many of the pros I did hire would fuck things up and I would have to fix it.

O.K. You did have SOME experience working with unions.
 
You can't answer a single question outside of changing a light bulb, which is about the extent of your electrical knowledge.

Janitors have been known to do that, I guess.

Or maybe change out a switch or plug.

Does this common industrial application look simple to a moron such as yourself?...

DSCF2577.jpg

The resolution is poor but it looks like a junction box with relay boards and step down transformers as indicated by the cooling blowers on the door. The big caps also indicate some rectification or at least power filtering of ac or dc circuitry may be going on there.
What kind of work do you do Princess?
 
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O.K. You did have SOME experience working with unions.

Most of the equipment I installed was two phase three wire 220/110 with an additional dedicated ground. The computers in the machines liked a zero volt reference without the fluctuations that the neutral inevitably had with the high amp relays opening and closing all the time.
As soon as these pros would hear four wires they would instantly want to provide 440. that kind of overvoltage could instantly fry all my relay boards. I had to meter and double check all the work before initiating any machines. That's why i did much of the wiring myself.
With on board labs on cruise ships, switching from shore to ship power and the electrical bow thrusters would plague the machines with spikes that played havoc withe the computer boards. In those applications I had to condition the power with transformers, rectification, huge battery packs and remodulate the AC with inverter circuits.
The machines had high amperage heater circuits and delicate five and twelve volt computer circuits all fed in from the same 220/110 terminal block.
After the first expensive install I figured out how to isolate the computer circuits from the heat and recirc pump systems within the machines so that I only had to condition the relatively small amperage the sensitometry and optical computers called for. The spikes in the current had no negative effect on the heaters and motors so I was able to cut the installs on ships by thousands of dollars by limiting the conditioned circuits using much smaller off the shelf conditioning units.
All that and I still had to design and manage chemical and silver recovery systems that were immune to ship rolling in rough weather.
Alignment and calibration of the optical systems, sensitometry programing and operator training were the easy parts of an onboard install.
No one I have ever met could wear all the hats I wore in that job, except some of the people I trained.
You never did say what kind of work you do Princess...
Is conduit bending by the book your specialty?
What is the 24 in GU-24 ...you never did say...
 
In 2008 the California Energy Commission issued a rule under Title 24 requiring high-efficiency lighting on all residential remodels and new construction. Title 24 defines high-efficiency lighting based on the rating of the socket, stating in the rule: “A high efficacy lamp screwed into a low efficacy luminaire [Edison socket] will still be considered to be a low efficacy lighting system for Title 24 projects.” In other words, only pin-based sockets such as the GU24 fixtures are considered high-efficiency and are permissible.
https://www2.buildinggreen.com/article/gu24-new-pin-base-cfls-leds

Google told me in .37 seconds.
It didn't take thirty years Princess...Lol
 
Most of the equipment I installed was two phase three wire 220/110 with an additional dedicated ground. The computers in the machines liked a zero volt reference without the fluctuations that the neutral inevitably had with the high amp relays opening and closing all the time.
As soon as these pros would hear four wires they would instantly want to provide 440. that kind of overvoltage could instantly fry all my relay boards. I had to meter and double check all the work before initiating any machines. That's why i did much of the wiring myself....

I read it all but that's as far as I need to get to understand that you're full of shit and know basically nothing about a commercial or industrial electrician.

What is the 24 in GU-24 ...you never did say...

It derives from a title.

Ever heard of it?

No?

Every electrician out there has.
 
I read it all but that's as far as I need to get to understand that you're full of shit and know basically nothing about a commercial or industrial electrician.



It derives from a title.

Ever heard of it?

No?

Every electrician out there has.

What do you do princess?
Beyond bending conduit by the book and reading California Energy Star regulations?
 
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