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[Mason Melchizedek]

I believe a person with O.C.D., would be more likely to win the lottery, then do that.

It's a shity job but Yurt likes to do it!

[MAGA MAN]

Disposable plastic gloves, get my O.C.D. mark of approval. I had several boxes just for vacation.

https://www.amazon.com/Venom-Industr...s%2C149&sr=8-3

These are great and can be reused several times.

[MAGA MAN]

I had to make "steps" to drive up on just to get this car high enough to get the lift bars under it at my friend's garage

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Working on it can be a pain! Driving it makes up for it

Not a lot of room to get at the filter in a big block, small car. My TBird has huge spring towers that take up 1/2 the engine bay.

March system.jpg

[RB 60]

Not a lot of room to get at the filter in a big block, small car. My TBird has huge spring towers that take up 1/2 the engine bay.

March system.jpg

This Cobra has a remote oil filter mounted vertically on a cross brace in front of the engine. The engine sits back pretty far for weight distribution so it's really easy to get at and you can fill the filter full before installing it. There's no way to get a jack under it to lift it to get to the drain plug though. The suspension is set up for road course racing so it sits a bit lower than "stock." I plan on raising the ride height about 1/4 to 1/2 inch when I get it up on a lift. I'll change the oil, grease everything and go over all the undercarriage bolts then. I do it every spring. This car is surprisingly solid and well built, better than most. I did a lot of research over 2 years before I bought this one. The body dimensions are closest to the originals compared to other makes, unless you want to spend a minimum of $150k for a Kirkham or a CCX Contemporary classic. I am looking into having it buffed, polished and ceramic coated, the paint is in excellent condition. A ceramic coating will last for years (6+) and won't need waxed.

[MAGA MAN]

This Cobra has a remote oil filter mounted vertically on a cross brace in front of the engine. The engine sits back pretty far for weight distribution so it's really easy to get at and you can fill the filter full before installing it. There's no way to get a jack under it to lift it to get to the drain plug though. The suspension is set up for road course racing so it sits a bit lower than "stock." I plan on raising the ride height about 1/4 to 1/2 inch when I get it up on a lift. I'll change the oil, grease everything and go over all the undercarriage bolts then. I do it every spring. This car is surprisingly solid and well built, better than most. I did a lot of research over 2 years before I bought this one. The body dimensions are closest to the originals compared to other makes, unless you want to spend a minimum of $150k for a Kirkham or a CCX Contemporary classic. I am looking into having it buffed, polished and ceramic coated, the paint is in excellent condition. A ceramic coating will last for years (6+) and won't need waxed.

Is yours a Factory Five?

That's cool about the remote oil filter. However I don't have room for anything. My car is the complete opposite of a race set-up. It's a big ol' luxury boat.

Also, I put a remote filter for the transmission exactly opposite of the oil filter (and use the same part number) so the engine looks symmetrical underneath.

You might want to look into the vacuum method of oil changes for your car. No lifting whatsoever. I've done it twice now on the Macan, and with a bit of technique it's easy to get every bit of it out. At least as much as a normal drain. A Mityvac 7201 is only $100 and should last me forever.

[RB 60]

Is yours a Factory Five?

That's cool about the remote oil filter. However I don't have room for anything. My car is the complete opposite of a race set-up. It's a big ol' luxury boat.

Also, I put a remote filter for the transmission exactly opposite of the oil filter (and use the same part number) so the engine looks symmetrical underneath.

You might want to look into the vacuum method of oil changes for your car. No lifting whatsoever. I've done it twice now on the Macan, and with a bit of technique it's easy to get every bit of it out. At least as much as a normal drain. A Mityvac 7201 is only $100 and should last me forever.

It's a factory built Unique Motorcars 427 Model out of Gadsden, AL. The motor is a 1962 406 cu. NASCAR block bored to 427 (515 HP), backed by a close ratio Toploader with a 3:30 Jaguar XK6 (fully independent) rear end. It runs and handles pretty good. It's small, loud, obnoxious and difficult to drive (no PS or PB), but definitely a blast to drive. It's quite the attention getter too.

Eng & Int 001.jpg

I put it up on a lift every spring to change the oil and grease the front and rear ends. There are lots of grease fittings and lots of U-joints, I make sure they don't dry out, many look difficult to change. I have it inspected (PA requires a once a year inspection) every Oct. before I put it away for the winter too.

[MAGA MAN]

It's a factory built Unique Motorcars 427 Model out of Gadsden, AL. The motor is a 1962 406 cu. NASCAR block bored to 427 (515 HP), backed by a close ratio Toploader with a 3:30 Jaguar XK6 (fully independent) rear end. It runs and handles pretty good. It's small, loud, obnoxious and difficult to drive (no PS or PB), but definitely a blast to drive. It's quite the attention getter too.

Eng & Int 001.jpg

I put it up on a lift every spring to change the oil and grease the front and rear ends. There are lots of grease fittings and lots of U-joints, I make sure they don't dry out, many look difficult to change. I have it inspected (PA requires a once a year inspection) every Oct. before I put it away for the winter too.

That's awesome. Chevy block? I like the period correct expansion tank.

I just looked them up. On my bucket list to stop by and see the shop. U-joints instead of CV's though?

We have a great transmission and driveshaft shop here. I had them rebuild a late 80's AOD for me, install it in my '64, test drive and adjust it. Then they did a custom driveshaft using my input and output castings and a new, longer tube. Check out their "artwork". Clean, sandblast, new tube welded on to my castings, heat straighten, new joints, balance and paint for just over $250.

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[RB 60]

That's awesome. Chevy block? I like the period correct expansion tank.

I just looked them up. On my bucket list to stop by and see the shop. U-joints instead of CV's though?

We have a great transmission and driveshaft shop here. I had them rebuild a late 80's AOD for me, install it in my '64, test drive and adjust it. Then they did a custom driveshaft using my input and output castings and a new, longer tube. Check out their "artwork". Clean, sandblast, new tube welded on to my castings, heat straighten, new joints, balance and paint for just over $250.

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No, definitely a Ford 406FE block (I'm a die-hard Ford man!). They were only cast from '62 1/2 through '63 1/2. They were a 2-bolt main block, a few were cast (for NASCAR) with crossbolt 4-bolt bosses cast in them (like I have) with 427 cylinder wall cores. Mine is drilled and crossbolted. The engine was built in 2002 by Southern Automotive and is very strong. With the close ratio Toploader and the rear gearing, it still has great low end torque and good top end. I had it up to 135 mph and it had a ways to go. I will say the guys who raced these things back in the day had balls! They are a handful. Wicked fast, small and uncomfortable, but loads of fun to drive.
To buy one with the options mine has and a (not nearly as rare) later 427FE block (standard in the '65 Cobras) would run you about $70k, cheaper if you built it yourself.

Those expansion tanks are hard to come by from what I have read. I bought the car from an older retired gentleman who never raced it and who's wife had trouble getting in and out of it. He bought a Lotus after he sold the Cobra to me. And yes, you are correct, CV joints. My mistake.

That shaft looks good, nice work there and a reasonable price. We have a good shop here too, they do a lot of work for the local sprint car and late model guys.
My mechanic is also a die-hard Ford man. He has a '70 MACH I with a stout 428 (2X4) and it sounds like it wants to jump right out of the engine compartment!

[MAGA MAN]

No, definitely a Ford 406FE block (I'm a die-hard Ford man!). They were only cast from '62 1/2 through '63 1/2. They were a 2-bolt main block, a few were cast (for NASCAR) with crossbolt 4-bolt bosses cast in them (like I have) with 427 cylinder wall cores. Mine is drilled and crossbolted. The engine was built in 2002 by Southern Automotive and is very strong. With the close ratio Toploader and the rear gearing, it still has great low end torque and good top end. I had it up to 135 mph and it had a ways to go. I will say the guys who raced these things back in the day had balls! They are a handful. Wicked fast, small and uncomfortable, but loads of fun to drive.
To buy one with the options mine has and a (not nearly as rare) later 427FE block (standard in the '65 Cobras) would run you about $70k, cheaper if you built it yourself.

Those expansion tanks are hard to come by from what I have read. I bought the car from an older retired gentleman who never raced it and who's wife had trouble getting in and out of it. He bought a Lotus after he sold the Cobra to me. And yes, you are correct, CV joints. My mistake.

That shaft looks good, nice work there and a reasonable price. We have a good shop here too, they do a lot of work for the local sprint car and late model guys.
My mechanic is also a die-hard Ford man. He has a '70 MACH I with a stout 428 (2X4) and it sounds like it wants to jump right out of the engine compartment!

Not so rare anymore: http://classicfordradiator.com/1960-...ank-EXP-1.aspx

Although pricey. Mine leaks a bit and next time I flush the radiator I'm going to solder it back up.

[RB 60]

Not so rare anymore: http://classicfordradiator.com/1960-...ank-EXP-1.aspx

Although pricey. Mine leaks a bit and next time I flush the radiator I'm going to solder it back up.

I see. Maybe more hard to find back in '02?

[MAGA MAN]

I see. Maybe more hard to find back in '02?

Probably. There is a lot more repro parts now than there was 10 or 20 years ago, and new stuff is being repro'd every day. Internet sales allow small shops to sell world-wide.

Back when I built my '64 (4-6 years ago) the local "you pull it" salvage yard had a dedicated area for classics. It wasn't big, basically 1/4 acre or so with about 50 cars. There were two '64s that I could get parts from. A year ago I went back on another project, the yard had been sold to a new owner and he had crushed them all.

[RB 60]

Probably. There is a lot more repro parts now than there was 10 or 20 years ago, and new stuff is being repro'd every day. Internet sales allow small shops to sell world-wide.

Back when I built my '64 (4-6 years ago) the local "you pull it" salvage yard had a dedicated area for classics. It wasn't big, basically 1/4 acre or so with about 50 cars. There were two '64s that I could get parts from. A year ago I went back on another project, the yard had been sold to a new owner and he had crushed them all.

Yes, the internet has been helpful to both buyers and manufacturers for repo parts.

There's a big junkyard not too far from me. It's been there for as long as I can remember. I've known for years and shoot pool with one of the brothers who own it (they inherited it) and back when I needed parts, I generally got a good deal. I doub't they'd have parts for my Cobra though.

Sat. is looking pretty good, temps in the mid 60's. I might go for a ride in the afternoon.

[MAGA MAN]

Yes, the internet has been helpful to both buyers and manufacturers for repo parts.

There's a big junkyard not too far from me. It's been there for as long as I can remember. I've known for years and shoot pool with one of the brothers who own it (they inherited it) and back when I needed parts, I generally got a good deal. I doub't they'd have parts for my Cobra though.

Sat. is looking pretty good, temps in the mid 60's. I might go for a ride in the afternoon.

I just drove mine yesterday evening for the first time in about 2 months; my first with the new driveshaft. The car is a lot smoother, and the terrible vibration at 65 is gone. I do get some at 70, and it goes away at 80. I balanced the tires last fall. This one is stumping me.

I have rough plans to put a harmonic damper on the transmission tail shaft, directly under the U-joint. Ford did this a lot and so I think it should help. Next would be a second one at the front of the differential.

[RB 60]

I just drove mine yesterday evening for the first time in about 2 months; my first with the new driveshaft. The car is a lot smoother, and the terrible vibration at 65 is gone. I do get some at 70, and it goes away at 80. I balanced the tires last fall. This one is stumping me.

I have rough plans to put a harmonic damper on the transmission tail shaft, directly under the U-joint. Ford did this a lot and so I think it should help. Next would be a second one at the front of the differential.

The previous owner had a slight vibration between 60 and 70. He said he tried everything, balanced the tires, even had them balanced on the car to no avail. The tires had like new tread but were old so I put new tires all the way around it and the vibration was gone. I greased the heck out of all the front and rear zerks too and now it's smooth as can be. The tire guy said that sometimes they get a tire that will balance but was molded slightly out of balance and can cause a vibration. Hope you can find the problem.

I had mine in the garage all winter, took it out 2 weeks ago for a short run. I forgot just how much power it had, I jumped on it in second and it broke loose shifting into 3rd.
It's raining today but supposed to clear up, hopefully it will dry the roads for tomorrow. If it's wet, the car stays in the garage for another day.

[MAGA MAN]

The previous owner had a slight vibration between 60 and 70. He said he tried everything, balanced the tires, even had them balanced on the car to no avail. The tires had like new tread but were old so I put new tires all the way around it and the vibration was gone. I greased the heck out of all the front and rear zerks too and now it's smooth as can be. The tire guy said that sometimes they get a tire that will balance but was molded slightly out of balance and can cause a vibration. Hope you can find the problem.

I had mine in the garage all winter, took it out 2 weeks ago for a short run. I forgot just how much power it had, I jumped on it in second and it broke loose shifting into 3rd.
It's raining today but supposed to clear up, hopefully it will dry the roads for tomorrow. If it's wet, the car stays in the garage for another day.

I bought these tires on a budget, since I spent too much on the wheels. True wire wheels with stainless wires. Cheap Asian tires I suppose.

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