I'm going through the wood too, but I should be ok for the season. I'm of the thought that a lot of the creosote is due to damping down the stove. I know those hydronic systems auto damp, but the stack is so short, and at times it runs full bore, so that should typically negate any buildup per se.
Huh...I was going to mention that the frustration I have with the bathrooms is waiting on my tile guy! I refuse to start doing tiles...despite my tile guys telling me I should.Ah, you're like me. Jack of all trades, master of one.
I'm a tile guy for about twenty years now. But I was a carpenter before that.
Lol, my wife is the Official Stacker too. But in all these years I haven't been able to teach her how to stack straight. She always makes what I call, the Leaning Tower of Pisa, LOL. No biggie, I keep a piece of plywood handy to straighten out her stacks.She also helps me load and haul the rounds.
Hmm...as you said, I think that's primarily meant for coal, which probably makes for a smaller firebox? I love mine. I used to rig up a blower system using old scroll cage motors from kitchen renovations. I NEVER throw out fans/motors. My unit has a huge blower that's thermostatically controlled...not unlike yours.
Finally had to break down and buy a splitter after 30+ years of hand splitting 7-10 cords/year....alone. My joints just couldn't take it anymore.
As Rune mentioned...use it during the day if you want to let the stove rip. I wouldn't use it for a slow burn.
I doubt it. Even if it is down and laying on the ground, it can suck up moisture. I have found that six months is enough for pine to season once it is split, but that is for my outdoor fire pit. I will once in a while throw a piece of pine in my wood burning stove to get it going good, but for the most part I stick to hard woods. I am fortunate that I have a near endless supply of hardwood. My reason for staying away from pine is you have to keep so much more of it on hand because it exhausts itself quicker.
At the end of the day, you should burn whatever is readily available and easily obtainable. All wood will burn and provide heat if it is seasoned correctly.
I would suggest investing in a moisture meter. You can use it for many different purposes, but I use it solely for checking my wood. Some will say you can tell by looking at it, which I guess is true, but I prefer to know. This works great. Anything under 20% moisture is considered seasoned, but I like to go below 15%.
I am hoping this cold spell breaks soon, I am really going through the wood. It is going to be a long spring replenishing the supply
We are subsidising those pellet imports to the tune of £1.5 million per day at Drax power station, it is the economics of the madhouse. Drax is the biggest biomass power station in the world.The European demand, driven by carbon credit costs, is keeping American wood pellet prices artificially elevated.
As more pellet burning plants are built, which is the new liberal craze, more forests will need to be cleared to supply them.
You can thank The Goracle
A freekin men. I always thought that using a hammer/maul was faster, but you spend so much time chasing the pieces after you hit them the first time. And for those twisted chunks, nothing beats hydraulics. I've got a system down now. It seems slower than by hand, but after an hour or so...I have a much bigger pile of split wood than I used to.
Looks like the one I bought from Sears. I had to grind down one of the steel cradles on the side with the hydraulic line. It was bolted to the frame in a way that had it contacting the hydraulic line. Before long, it would have rubbed a hole in the line. Aside from that flaw, I love it.
